The Old Bull and Bush

There are a number of great pubs in and around Hampstead in North London. Some qualify as gastropubs, although the label is misplaced - gastropub implies that the food is much better than the drink, and that the purpose of the pub is to serve food, not to serve drink. This is not true with most of these "gastropubs", particularly not the Old Bull and Bush. Here, the food is one facet of an establishment that serves those interested in a good meal, those interested in a good pint, or both. I fall into the last category most of the time.

The Old Bull and Bush is located on North End Road east of Golders Green tube station. It's not easily accessible by public transport, but it doesn't need to be - most of its patrons live in the area. Nevertheless, it's well worth a visit even if one is coming from further afield. Across the road from the pub is Golders Hill Park, which is a treat to walk around in summer (there's the obligatory pond with ducks, as well as an interesting aviary). The pub was originally supposed to be the site of a tube station (to be known as Bull and Bush station, of course) between Hampstead and Golders Green. The station exists underground, and one can see it on the tube journey between Hampstead and Golders Green, but shafts were never sunk down from the surface.

The Old Bull and Bush
North End Road
Golders Green
London NW3 7HE
020 8905 5456

At the Old Bull and Bush, one has a choice of 3 areas, the restaurant, the pub or the beer garden in front. The restaurant serves slightly more expensive, more elaborate food, while the pub serves simpler salads and pizzas (as does the beer garden). The pizzas and salads are also available in the restaurant.

As far as drinks go, the wine list is fairly interesting, although I haven't actually drank wine at the Old Bull and Bush. The highlight is Mad Fish from Mad Fish Bay, a white with which I was impressed when I tried it elsewhere. The beers aren't bad either - there are a list of 10 (with many of the familiar options), and the highlight is draught Edelweiss, which I usually have.

The menu has changed over the last 6 months, and sadly, I don't think it was for the better. Two of my favourites have been taken off - the crab linguine (which was also a favourite of the Pretty Lady's) and the Turkish aubergine and lamb pizza. Nevertheless, there remains enough good hearty food on the menu to make this place worth visiting.

Pride of place on the starter menu should go to the eggs benedict. They used to make this dish with salmon, which was tasty enough, but they've gone back to the original and best version - with smoked ham. Other starters include chicken liver parfait and scallops with chorizo.

For mains, one can't do better than the lamb rack, chorizo and vegetables. The chorizo has been deep fried in cubes, and scattered like pancetta over the roast rack of lamb. If that is too heavy, the duck salad with watercress is a reasonably healthy alternative. Some of the new options on the menu are pretty good too - venison and pancetta hot pot with roast vegetables is decent cold weather comfort food. There are also the comforts of grilled steak and chips, or well done pizza.

Desserts are where the Old Bull and Bush is weak - there aren't any. Still, it's nice place to enjoy a glass of wine, or another beer, or just a coffee.

Scores:

13 March 2008: TFQ = 22, CS = 22, S = 14, AD = 6, VfM = 7. Total = 71 points.

What does this mean?