Monday 24 March 2008

Chateau de Javernand Chiroubles 2005 (wakey wakey sleepyhead)

I got this wine for dinner at the Anchor and Hope not too long ago, to accompany a slow-cooked lamb shoulder and potato gratin. The Yogababe and I disagreed over whether to get a 2003, a 2005 or a 2002 vintage from the wine list, but eventually we decided to go for the 2005 as it seemed to be the best value for money. We were also getting 2 bottles for a table of 8, and I believe that younger wine drinks better in large quantities. I've not tested that theory, but this particular vintage seemed to go down well. Adjacent image from www.javernand.com, the vineyard's website.

Chateau de Javernand Chiroubles 2005
Red wine
French (Chiroubles, Beaujolais-cru)
Gamay

Nose: Kiwi, flowers, red fruits, tart plums, something savoury - cheese.
Mouthfeel: Smooth, not over-rich, medium body.
Tasting: Oak, apples, meat drippings, cherries, sandalwood. Pushes right up through the nose, very agressive once properly aerated.

I felt it complemented the meat quite well. It took some time to wake up though - for about half an hour after opening, effectively all the way through my starter, the wine simply tasted of plain fruit and oak. Only when the meat came did it open up with savoury and sandalwood notes appearing. Vigorous swirling helped a bit, but I was afraid of over-oxidising the wine. Yogababe felt that it didn't really wake up for her until she was well into her mains, and she was quite disappointed.

Chiroubles is one of the Beaujolais-cru appellations, that is, one of 10 appellations (located near villages of the same names, usually) in the foothills of the Beaujolais mountains. The Chiroubles appellation is one of those synonymous with a village, and is located at a high altitude for a vineyard. The wines are supposed to display aromas of cut violets, and are supposed to be best when young.

Chateau de Javernand is one of more than 70 vineyards in the Chiroubles appellation. It was started in 1917 by Auguste Faye, who bought the vineyard and the chateau. The vineyard is run today by Pierre Forneau. The vineyard produces 2 marques, Chateau de Javernand, their cuvee selection, and Les Gatilles (I think this means "the geckos", but my French is very basic). Les Gatilles is supposed to be a truer representation of what the vineyard's characteristics are: refreshing and fruity.

I found this particular Beaujolais to be pretty good, but as an accompaniment to a meal in a restaurant, it was a little deficient. The wine needs to breathe for quite a long time before more interesting aromas appear, so it probably suits being served at home better. Now that I know, I suppose I could also get them to decant it for a bit before our meal.

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