Wild Honey

This place is one of 2 sister restaurants, both of which have Michelin stars now. The other restaurant is Arbutus, and both restaurants are owned and run by Anthony Demetre and Will Smith. The restaurants share some common dishes, but Wild Honey is supposed to be a little more down to earth, less "hedge fundey" and more focused on the food. Even though it's located in Mayfair, I think the restaurant succeeds. I like the wood-panel decor, and the staff are always very helpful, especially when it comes to last minute reservations.

Wild Honey
12 St George Street
London W1S 2FB
+44 (0) 20 7758 9160

The Pretty Lady and I have been here a number of times, just by ourselves and in groups of up to 4 people. The food is French Provencal with a smattering of Modern European, and I've always enjoyed it.

There is no better starter than the pig's head, a dish which is also available at Arbutus. It consists of a gelatinous slice of brawn, mostly pig's jowl, fatty and salty and full of offal flavour, with caramelised onion marmalade. The Pretty Lady likes the smoked eel here - it's been available in combination with salad or mashed potatoes.

For mains, the Elwy Valley lamb is always a winner. I love Welsh lamb - it's almost pre-flavoured. At Wild Honey, they've served it with samphire and roast vegetables, or simply with roast potatoes. Simple, and absolutely delicious. Sometimes there's also Limousin veal available, milk-fed and tender, and recently I've had a delicious John Dory and clam. Combinations of fish and shellfish are quite common here - the Pretty Lady has also enjoyed razor clam and seared halibut.

For dessert, try the wild honey ice cream with honeycomb - finest, best-textured honeycomb available anywhere. The Yogababe likes the cheese plate here, while on a recent visit the Pretty Lady had chocolate soup and milk ice cream, a delicious combination of soft mousse and cold ice cream.

Wines are decent here - not too pricey, and there's a wide selection. Domaine Gerovassiliou is available here, but the Assyrtiko, not the Malagousia. Recently we had a good Albarino, which I'll blog about separately as usual. There's usually also a pre-theatre cocktail, which is generally champagne-based.

I enjoy the food here, but I think that from a value standpoint there are better places to go. I think of Wild Honey as an occasional treat - it's a good place to go for good food once in a while.

Scores:

3 August 2008: TFQ = 26, CS = 26, S = 16, AD = 8, VfM = 6. Total = 82 points.