Jin Kichi

London doesn't have many places that serve good yakitori. Yakitori (usually bits of chicken meat) is usually available in most Japanese restaurants, but I am aware of only 2 London restaurants that make it a specialty. There is a new hip place in the Oxo Tower called Bincho Yakitori (of which more later), and there is the old Hampstead faithful, Jin Kichi.

Jin Kichi
73 Heath Street
London NW3 6UG
020 7794 6158

Situated a couple of minutes' walk from Hampstead tube station, Jin Kichi is something of an izakaya (at least, as close as one gets in London), a Japanese pub. There are a number of interesting selections on the drinks menu, including a hot shochu and water with a salted ume in it. This particular drink is fantastic in winter, especially if one has been caught in the rain and is sitting down slightly damp at the yakitori bar.

The restaurant has 2 floors, seating perhaps 30 people both on the ground floor and in the basement. The ground floor is where the yakitori grill is, surrounded by a bar, around which are arranged 10 or so seats. This is a great place to sit, as one can place orders for individual yakitori and receive them as hot from the grill as possible.

The yakitori are the stars on the menu. There are about 20 selections, ranging from chicken, ox tongue and duck to mushrooms. There are 2 sets available, of which Set B is particularly good value for money, if you like chicken offal. Highly recommended skewers include chicken gizzard, chicken liver, salted ox tongue, duck and spring onion, pork and shiso maki, and shiitake mushrooms.

The kitchen downstairs serves sushi and sashimi (which is run of the mill), and also does great tempura. Vegetable tempura is particularly good, with octopus tentacles a close second. Deep fried baby shrimp are also available (they come in a heaped pile), along with grilled fish head (labelled on the menu as fish bones). The occasional special makes its appearance on the menu, ranging from fried calamari to several types of chazuke (Japanese rice drowned in stock and flavoured with fish flakes).

The service is perfectly adequate, and as I usually sit at the bar, as prompt as it is anywhere else. Prices are reasonable for a restaurant that is the best at its specialty in London. Well worth a visit, but don't sit in my place at the bar.

Scores:

22 Nov 2007: TFQ = 25, CS = 26, S = 15, AD = 6, VfM = 8. Total = 80 points.

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